Friday, December 28, 2007

Keisha’s first Christmas

I haven’t written in awhile. Christmas went well. The tree was left standing, and I only had to re-decorate the bottom of it because Keisha runs under it sometimes, and the only ornament that was broken was by me! I don’t think that’s toobad at all! I even decorated the side of the kitchen counter and Keisha didn’t bother it at all! I’ve been very impressed!


On Christmas morning my mom called and I sat in front of the tree while I was talking to her to open our gifts. I helped Sophie open her stuffed snowman that my mom gave her, and then I let Keisha out of her crate. I put the short leash on her to keep her from diving into the gifts! She had been wanting to get at them when I was putting them under the tree the night before! I gave her the gift my mom sent her and she ripped it open herself. She tore at the paper and then shook her head really fast so the paper flew off. It was a stuffed gingerbread man that smells like gingerbread! She loves it! It actually smells really good. My mom also sent them a huge box of treats in the shape of a dog house. It has ten bags of treats in it. That should last them awhile!

On Boxing Day my uncle and cousin came to visit. It was the first time Keisha met them and she was so excited I had to keep her in her crate for most of the time they were here. Sophie was really excited to see Uncle Glen again too!

I’ve noticed that Keisha is growing out of her biting stage lately! I’m so glad! She use to try to bite everything! Now when she’s really excited she will still bite at my hand a bit, but she mostly licks now. I think some of it has to do with working on targeting with her. I use my hand as the target because I thought that I could teach her both the targeting and teach her to not bite at the same time.

She has also learned “sit”, “down”, “come”, “stay” and we are working on “heel”. She will have “heel” completed really soon and we are continuing to work on staying for longer periods of time. I know it might seem like a painfully slow process, but I am making sure she knows one command and has a really good grasp on it before moving onto the next. I need her commands to be “solid” when I start teaching her guide work. Over the weekend I’m thinking about teaching her take clothes out of the dryer. I thought this would be fun for her, and that it’s easier to start with than teaching her to pick up something and bring it back to me. It’s in a smaller area and she is just the right height to reach inside of the dryer now. I’m trying to decide if I want to use “get” or “take” with her though. I taught Sophie with “get”, but I’m thinking I will use “fetch” with Keisha. It will also be a word that sounds a lot different than “give”. She will also learn to “find” things, but I think “find” and “fetch” also sound different enough to use and not confuse her. She love playing fetch and will bring her toys back to me, so it shouldn’t be too hard to teach her to do the same with other things.

It’s almost 3am and Julian will soon be calling me, so I guess I better go for now. I’ll write more about how Keisha is doing with the clothes and dryer later. I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!

Monday, December 17, 2007

The Christmas tree is up!

I put up the Christmas tree on Dec. 15th. I would have put it up earlier, but I was sick for 4 days! I’m feeling like a human being again now, but I spent over 3 days on the couch! Keisha was really well behaved when I was sick! She usually whines and howls if I’m out of the room for any length of time and she is in her crate, but I guess I madesomany trips to the bathroom she got tired of moaning about it! I don’t let her out of her crate while I’m not in the room with her because she is tall enough to get things off the table now, and I usually have my laptop there.


So far, Keisha hasn’t been too interested in the Christmas tree. She still dives at it every so often, but I think it’s mostly for attention. She’s also a lot better around Sophie now! She still wants to play with her, but when I call her she will come now. That’s really helpful! Now when she runs after Sophie I tell her to “come” and instead of nipping at Sophie first, she turns aroudn and comes running toward me!

We also had a snow storm on saturday and sunday! Keisha loves snow! She digs in it, leaps around and buries her nose in it. She even barks and howls when it’s snowing and she’s in her crate because she is suppose to be sleeping.

She’s sleeping in her crate right now, and Sophie’s sleeping on the couch. It’s nice when it’s this quiet here! It doesn’t happen very often since Keisha’s been here!

Saturday, December 8, 2007

A hyper puppy and a yellow lab.

I took this photo tonight. Sophie was relaxing in her chair, and Keisha decided to leap on top of her. Sophie just turned 10 on Nov. 3rd, and she was never a dog to play a lot. Sure she has her moments where she wants to play, but 10 minutes later she’s back to her calm, relaxed self. Keisha on the other hand is a little bundle of energy with pointy ears! She constantly has to be moving!


Keisha jumps all over Sophie and tries to bite her. She always wants to play, and don’t seem to understand that Sophie doesn’t want to. Sophie growls at her when she bugs her too much, and has even barked at her! She only ever barked a few times in the 8 years we’ve been together before Keisha joined us!

I’m hoping Keisha will learn to leave Sophie alone eventually. Until then I guess I just have to do my best to keep her from bothering Sophie too much!

Friday, December 7, 2007

Keisha broke a bowl

Keisha broke a bowl last night! I was in the bathroom and heard a crash. For a few seconds I thought she had somehow broke out of her crate! When I came out there was a broken bowl on the floor. It had been on top of her crate, and she managed to push it off the top. I had been keeping it there to put her water in. She tips over dog bowls too easily, and I can’t use the ones that have rubber on the bottoms that are harder to tip over because I have a latex allergy. I cleaned up the bowl, and vaccumed to make sure there were no small pieces of glass in the carpet, and I guess I’ll have to find somewhere else to keep her bowls from now on!


She’s sleeping in her crate now, and Sophie’s sleeping on the couch. It’s one of the rare moments when it’s quiet here! When Keisha’s awake she’s usually howling, talking, being hyper, or chasing her tail!

I’m not sure how I’m going to keep her from destroying the Christmas tree yet. I’m going to wait for awhile longer before putting it up, but I know she’s going to want to jump at it and eat it! I’ll let everyone know how it goes once the tree is up!

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Fire alarms at 4am

At 4am this morning the fire alarms in the building started going off! I knew as soon as they started that the concierge was going to announce that there was an “alarm situation” on the 31st floor. These “alarm situations” always seem to happen there. They also happen a lot at really odd times when no one should be cooking.


This condo has three seperate speakers that the fire alarm sounds through. There is one in each bedroom, and another by the kitchen. There’s no way you would sleep through the alarm when it goes off! There is also a pad on the wall near the kitchen that you can press to silence the alarm. The problem is whenever the concierge makes an announcement to tell you what is happening during the alarm, it will go off again in your condo. I guess it’s good in case you fall back to sleep, but they announce things twice and it gets annoying shutting it off over and over.

This morning I didn’t turn it off. Keisha decided to howl the whole time the alarm was going off, which was for quite a while, and she was jumping around in her crate even after it had stopped. Sophie is use to it, so she just calmly waited to find out what we were going to do.
What annoys me most is the fact that it’s always on the same floor, and that there are only 8 condos on that floor! Chances are that it’s the same person causing the fire alarms to go off over and over!

Now that I’ve vented a bit I’m going to go try to get some sleep. it’s 6:39am and I’m so tired I’m getting a headache. Sophie’s sleeping in the chair and Keisha’s sleeping in her crate. I’m about to go join them and sleep on the couch. Hopefully there won’t be any more “alarm situations” today.

Sunday, December 2, 2007

Keisha's First Real Snowfall



It started snowing last night. Keisha spent most of the night in her crate watching the snow fall and howling at it. After midnight I had to close the curtains because she was making too much noise. She finally settled down andwent to sleep.

Today when we woke up there was snow up around the windows and as soon as Keisha saw it she wanted to go outside! I put some new batteries in my camera and got her and Sophie ready to go out. Luckily we have a pretty big patio area that they can run around on. I put Sophie on her FlexiLeash, and put Keishas harness on her. I had to adjust the belly strap because it was too tight! The last time she wore it was on Nov. 28th! She’s growing really fast. I used a longer training leash on Keisha so I could control her a bit. She likes to leap on Sophie and bite her, so I gave her a bit less leash than Sophie. They ran around and had some fun before Sophie wanted to come back inside. Keisha came in a little while later after she chased birds for bit and they both had a nap.

I thought I’d put the video I took on this blog entry instead of some of the pictures I took. I’ll be adding pictures throughout the winter. Enjoy the video!

Friday, November 30, 2007

Some re-planning is in order

When Keisha was out of her crate it was easy to keep things away from her. All I had to do was put them on the kitchen counter or table. They were out of reach, and safe. Notice how I said “when” and “were”? Well, tonight Keisha proved that she is no longer the little puppy who had came home 24 days ago. She is now more like a toddler.


When she first came home she would leap after Sophie. Sophie would then get up into the chair in the living room, knowing that she was safe form Keisha and her pointy little teath! She would look down at Keisha taunting her knowing there was nothing she could do as long as she kept her paws and tail far enough away form the edge of the chair.

I noticed these past few weeks that Keisha can leap onto the chair and couch! Sophie noticed this when Keisha leapt over the arm of the chair and started biting her, while walking over her! She got out of the chair and Keisha went tumbling out of the chair. This didn’t stop her though, and she chased Sophie onto the couch to get in some more bites!

Now she can jump onto the chair and couch, get cloths that are hanging over the edge of the kitchen counter, put her front paws on the table and get things off there, and jump at the tv! She has so much fun leaping at something she sees moving on the tv. It’s funny right now, but I have to teach her not to do it because I’m sure it won’tbe so funny when a full grown Siberian Husky puts her head through my tv!

I guess the next plan is to just keep the counter tops and table as clear as possible, and to unplug my laptop from the wall before letting her out so she can’t pull it, or anything else from the center of the table by getting tangled in the cord!

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Keisha's vet visit

Keisha had an apointment with the Vet today to get her next set of vacinations. I put her harness on her along with her collar so there would be an extra "Husky Handle" to grab her with if she tried to escape the Vet, and took a towel and her puppy Nylabone.

Julian took her on her leash and I had Sophie and we all went downstairs to the parking garage. She was trying to jump on Sophie at first, but wasn't too bad once we got on the elevator. There are other dogs in the building, so there were plenty of smells for both of them to sniff.

She kept turning around to see Sophie when we were walking down the hallway on our parking level, and all the way to the car. I thought it would be better for her to walk ahead so Sophie coud keep an eye on ehr without worrying if she was going to be leapt on from behind! Keisha jumps on her and bites her ears a lot, and will run towards her with her mouth already open! I'm hoping she will out grow that stage when she stops teething!

Sophie got in the back seat of the car, and I held Keisha in my lap in the front. I had the towel on my lap in case she peed. I wouldn't want to go to the vet, or anywhere else looking like I had peed myself after all! She was pretty good on the way to the vet, looking out the window and people watching. She didn't pay too much attention to vehicles, not even buses or street cars, but she loves watching people! She also seems fasanated with people riding bikes. Maybe it has to do with my wheelchair. She tried to keep cyclists in her view for as long as possible.

When we got out of the car at the vets, Sophie already knew where we were. She hasn't been there before, but she started sniffing (she does this a lot when she visits the vets), and acted really nervous. I held Sophie's leash in one hand and Keisha's in the other while Julian parked. One of the women who passed me said "You've got your hands full there", and she couldn't have been more right! Keisha wanted to see everything, and Sophie just wanted to sniff!

We went inside and waited in the dog area, and when the receptionist told the vet that Keisha was there for her apointment, Sophie let out a sigh and flopped down on the floor! It's like she knew exactly what was said!

The vet said that she was looking great, and gave her her shots. She ran around in circles after she had them, and tried to bite her hip while spinning around and dragging her butt accross the floor! She didn't know what just happened to her. The vet said that Husky's really didn't tolerate shots well, but she did fine. She had one near her hip, one near each of her shoulders and some medicine in her nose. She was also sneezing as she sun in the circle and did the butt dragging. After a few minutes she was fine though.

She is 12.54 lbs now. She hasn't put on a lot of weight since she's been here, but she also had diarrhea for awhile, so that wasn't good. She was doing a lot better the day after she visited the vet for that, and had some medication for it for a few days. Sophie also got her nails clipped and was registered there too.

When we left the vets I was waiting outside for Julian to get the car and these two guys asked if they could pet Keisha. They were making a huge fuss over her telling her how beautiful she is and petting her, and they both told Sophie she was beautiful too. Sophei was not impressed because she usually gets all of the attention, and here were the only two people in the Greater Toronto Area who knew they weren't suppose to pet working dogs!

Keisha got tired on the way home and fell asleep for a little while. She had that glazed over look, and was really floppy and sleepy. She still tried to watch everything that was happening around her though.

When we got back, Julian carried her upstairs and she's been sleeping in her crate ever since, with a break for her supper. She hasn't howled or made noise all night. She's not herself at all. I'm sure she'll be her hyper, noisy self in the morning though!

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Keisha's first bath



Keisha had her first bath about a week after coming home. We absolutely had to give her one! She had decided that it was ok to pee in her crate and roll around in it, and smelled horrible!
I thought she wouldn't mind getting a bath too much because she obviously didn't mind being wet! She also tipped her water bowl over every chance she got and splashed around in her crate. She puts her paw in her water bowl while she's drinking a lot too.

Sophie, my Lab. doesn't like getting a bath at all! If you as much as get a towel she is out of reach, and uneasy until you get into the bath tub or shower youself. It's odd how I ended up having a Lab., who is suppose to be a water dog who doesn't like water, and a Husky who loves it.

When I put Keisha into the tub she started drinking the water. I made her stop because God only knows what she had in her fur!

I used some really mild shampoo, and only as much as I needed and she was finally smelling like a little puppy again! We couldn't even cuddle her before her bath because she was just disgusting!

She did manage to escape from the tub once! I didn't think she could because it's a deep soaker tub. She was just tall enough to stand on her hind legs and put her front ones on the side of the tub. She's definetly a climber!

She's had to have another couple of baths using just water a a tiny bit of mild shampooo since then, but she's getting a lot better! She's also growing a lot! She still chases Sophie around a lot, and bites her, but we are trying to stop her from doing this. Sophie just runs away from her and growls at her. I've had Sophie for 8 years, and she has only barked a few times (if you would even call it barking), but since getting Keisha she growls at her almost every day! I bet if she could she'd give Keisha away to the Pizza Delivery guy, or pack her up and send her back to her breeder! I'm sure as she learns to leave Sophie alone though they will get along a lot better. Let's hope so anyway!

Sunday, November 25, 2007

Potty training problem solved

I thought I'd write an update about how Keisha's potty training is going. She gives really suttle clues to us when she needs to go out, but she will still just go in her crate sometimes without even trying to let us know too. I was considering paper training her, but thought if she wasn't trained to go on paper, I would rather not teach her at all, and continue teaching her to go outside.


Tonight I got an email from her breeder telling me that for the last three nights that she was with her breeder she slept in a crate next to her bed with shredded paper in it, and that she spent the days in the kitchen and she was paper trained!

I had not been leaving anything in her crate because she just chews it up and tries to dig through it, but tonight I put some paper in her crate, and almost right away she went on it! She's been going on it ever since! At first she shredded the paper, but she hasn't been too bad since. I will gradually move the paper outside, and hope she will learn more easily this way.

She has also learned to "come" today. Now she knows "sit" "down" and "come". I'm making sure she has a firm grasp on the commands and are reliably obeying them before I start teaching her a new one. She also had diarrhea for awhile, and I had to stop the training. She has had medication for this though, and I am happy to report that she is completely better!

Friday, November 23, 2007

Determined to chew that bone

Keisha was in her crate today while I was vacuuming. She was watching me and "talking" as huskies do. Julian was on the phone, so I was trying to keep her as quiet as possible. I found Sophie's bone in the bedroom, so I gave it to Keisha to play with until I was finished cleaning up. It's a Nylabone, and she tries to steal it whenever she can. She played with it for awhile, but it kept sliding around her crate. I can't keep any bedding in there for her because she just digs it and chews it until it is destroyed!

I fed her a little while before this, and hr bowl was still in her crate. It's a deep bowl, and not a dog bowl because she tips dog bowls over way too easily. Then she has a crate ful of water that she wines about before she splashes it in. I can't use the other kind of dog bowls that she can't tip over because they have rubber on the bottom and I have a latex allergy.

Anyway, she was trying to chew the bone, but it kept escaping from her on the plastic floor. She picked the bone up, put it in her empty bowl and tried chewing it again. It still slipped around, so she covered the bowl with her fron leg, and then with the front of her body so she could hold the bone still and chew it! It only took her a few minutes to figure this out!

She is so smart! She is just like Sophie, my current guide dog when she is trying to figure things out. She will sit back and think about how she will do something until she figures out a way to do what she wanted. She knows that the door of her crate opens when I lift up the handle and slide it sideways, and she will try to do it with her nose and mouth when she wants to get out. She has the lifting part down, but still hasn't figured out how to slide it yet. I'm not sure she can slide it from the inside, but I know if it's at all possible, she will figure out a way sooner or later! Let's just hope that it's later, and I don't have to catch a puppy escapee all the time!

Saturday, November 17, 2007

Why I Chose A Siberian Husky

When I started looking into which breed I should train I was set on getting another yellow lab. Sophie is great, and labs. are mostly used for guide and service dogs because they are great at it. Then I started exploring other breeds because I didn’t want Sophie to feel like I was replacing her (just bringing in another dog of the same breed), and I would feel guilty about it.

I looked into the working dogs group, for obvious reasons, and started looking at different breeders in my area. A Siberian Husky breeder’s site came up, and as I read it I became very interested in teh breed. I spent weeks researching them, and found out that they have been used as guide dogs and service dogs.

They have all of the qualities I was looking for. Siberians are extremely intelligent and independent, which are both qualities you need in a guide or service dog. They need to be able to make up their own minds and be able to learn difficult things like “intelligent disobedience” where if the handler gives the dog a command and it would be dangerous to do it, the dog disobeys. If I tell her “forward” at a curb and a car doesn’t stop, then she should stay at the curb and not walk out into the street because she was told to do it. I kept reading about how “stubborn” huskies are, but whenever I read that I was thinking “it’s perfect”! I’m not looking for a dog that will do everything I say without thinking about it!

Living in Canada it can get cold! I was looking for a dog that could handle the cold eather. In the winter I have a coat for Sophie. When it gets down to -30c Labs get cold! She also has boots, but this is because the salt used on roads and sidewalks can burn dogs paws.

I need a dog that has a lot of energy so they can keep up with all of the work and not get tired easily. I also needed one that could pull and wasn’t too big. A Siberian Husky is a great size for fitting into tight spaces like under the seat in front of me on an airplane, or under a table when we go out to eat.

I do want kids in the future, and will be working around kids. I wanted a dog that would be good with them, and friendly with people. In other words, a dog that thinks everyone she meets is a new friend!

They are really healthy compared to most of the breeds used for guide and service work, and from what I’ve read they don’t have a “doggy odor” when they get wet like a lot of other breeds. This can come in handy when out in public!

They are very adaptable dogs, and have the intellegence for the job. Another small bonus is that they are more likely to “talk” and howl than bark. It’s easier to stop a dog from howling than barking, and as long as Keisha doesn’t “talk” too loud while working and doesn’t howl then she can “talk” all she wants when we are at home.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

Potty training problems

Keisha is doing great! She has learned how to sit, and is learning how to lay down. She's very smart, and we are constantly trying to stay one step ahead of her! The only problem we are having is teaching her not to pee in her crate! She doesn't seem to care at all if her crate is wet.

Her crate is right next to the door that leads to the patio. I have a litter box outside the door that Sophie uses, and if Keisha is put out there the first thing in the morning she will pee there. If she is left out there long enough she will also pee. The problem is she don't understand that her crate is not a good place to pee.

When she pees outside I praise her a lot, give her one of her favorite treats, and she gets to play. She realizes this because when she pees, she runs inside to get her treat. When she pees in her crate, I tell her "no" and put her right outside. She will usually hold it, but after awhile she will go. She also pees a little outside and acts like she's done, but as soon as she goes back into her crate she pees.

I have the divider in her crate and it's only big enough for her to turn around in, but she will still pee and lay down in it. I tried leaving the puddle in her crate, and thought that if she realized that it wouldn't be cleaned up right away and that she had to lay in it she wouldn't want to do it, but she just wined for a minute and layed down in it! I even tried letting ehr out with Sophie so she could watch her, but then she just wants to play after watching her intently for a few minutes.

I cleaned out her crate with stuff that takes odors away, but that didn't work either, so the next step I'm thinking of trying is to teach her to go on some paper that will be put in the far end of her crate, and gradually move it outside. I hope something works soon!

Someone suggested that she could have "learning difficulties", but I know I don't have to worry about that! She can learn other things easily, but is just having some problems with this. The same person also suggested that some dogs are impossible to housebreak, but I think any dog can be trained if you know what motivates them and can find something that works for them! I've just got to find out what works for Keisha.

I was reading about how puppies can't physically "hold it" until they are at least 12weeks old. She has another couple of weeks to go until then, so I'm not too worried about it yet. I'm sure things will work out fine. I was also reading about the Misty Method of potty training for puppies. If puppies of that age can be potty trained, I'm sure Keisha can!


And that is why her nickname is "Stinky"!

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Keisha is home!

I thought I'd take some time to write an update. I did finally pick a name for the puppy. I named her Keisha. It's one of the first names we thought of, and it's been in the back of my mind ever since. It's funny how you go back to the first thing you picked sometimes.

We picked her up on Nov. 7th, and it only took her a few minutes to make herself at home! She slowly came out of her kennel, and hasn't been the least bit timid or unsure since!

She's a handful, and loves to play. She tries her best to play with Sophie, but Sophie doesn't like dogs playing with her. She just turned 10 years old on Nov. 3rd, and likes to relax for most of the day, enjoying some play time when she feels like it. Keisha, however being the hyper puppy that she is, thinks every minute of the day, or night is play time!

Julian brought her home a rope toy, and she really likes playing with it. She also likes stealing my fuzzy slippers! Sophie liked fuzzy slippers as a puppy also! It must be a puppy thing!

I'll write some longer entries later, but right now I have to go finish doing laundry and cleaning up the kitchen before Keisha decides that nap time is over.

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

I'm getting the puppy on Nov. 7th!

I just thought I'd write an update. I'm going to pick up my puppy on Nov. 7th, thanks to a family member on my step dad's side of the family! She offered to drive me to the puppy breeder's house to pick the puppy up!

I still haven't thought of a name! I know I need to come up with one I am happy with, and that suits her, but I'm having trouble finding a female "husky" name that hasn't been over-used. It seems like the same names are used over and over.

I've picked out a crate, crate pad, collar, leash, and Nylabone and it will be ordered this week. It will be shipped from this city, so it shouldn't take too long to get here. I've decided to buy a collar to use for now, and Julian is going to bring me a leash, harness and collar that he is getting a girl in the dog club class he teaches to make. She breeds husky's, and makes leather leashes etc.

I decided on a Nylabone because Sophie, my yellow lab has had one since guide dog school in Aug. of 2000 and she still has the same bone! She's not a "power chewer", but these bones are great! The yellow lab Viki owned who stayed in the room accross the hall would chew his bones up in the matter of days! I thought that if I got the "wolf" bone it would last longer, and the puppy would have something she could chew on and I wouldn't have to stay with her while she chewed it. I also found bones that you fill with water and freeze them. They are really good for dogs that are teething. I'll have to look into these later.

It's so hard to find non-latex dog toys! As a matter of fact, it's hard to find non-latex anything! I have a latex allergy, and can't handle anything that is made of rubber. All of the "Kong" toys are made of rubber, and most "chew" toys are. Even tennis balls have rubber bits on them! I'll have to try to find some toys besides rope toys to get. Even some rope toys have tennis balls attached!

I'll keep everyone updated, and add more photos of the puppy when I get her!

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Dog litter box


I live in a condo in Toronto, and there is very little grass around. There is a park about a block away, but I don't want to go there at night and it isn't very convenient having to go there every time my current guide dog, or my new puppy has to go out.

I came up with a solution that solves this problem when we moved in. I decided to build my yellow lab a litter box! A lot of people must have thought I had totally "lost it", but I thought it would work quite well. I could put it outside on the large patio area I have and train her to "go" in it.

We went to Home Depot and bought the material and I made the box. I know you can get "dog litter", but I wasn't sure where, so I filled it with kitty litter. It took a few days to get her use to using the litter box because she got so use to going on grass, but after a few days she was using it when she needed to go! Now I just open the door, and let her out and she comes back in when she's done! I also put the litter box under the balcony that is above this floor so it wouldn't get wet when it rains.

There are two cats that live on this floor, and they come around my patio and look in the windows. One of them even comes into the condo if we leave the door open! They would sniff around the box and I tried to keep them away, in case Sophie would not want to use the litter box if she knew the cats had used it.

The next time I got some kitty litter, I found some Swheat Scoop Natural Litter. It's made from naturally processed wheat, has no clay and still clumps so it can be easily removed when wet! Sophie used to get the other kitty litter stuck between the pads of her paws, but this stopped once I started using the new litter! If any gets on her paws when she coems back inside now, it can easily be vacuumed up!

I'm going to train the puppy to use the litter box too. It will be a lot easier, and come in very handy, not only when it snows, but just because I will just have to let her outside. I'm not planning on letting her out there without using a leash though, because she could easily slip out underneight the fence. I'll have to think of a way to "husky proof" things out there!

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Collar or Harness?


I have been thinking about if I should use a collar or a harness when I get my puppy.

I've been reading as much as I can about huskies and most people seem to be trying to teach them not to pull. I can understand why you'd want to do that, but in my case I want the puppy to pull.

When she grows up she will be helping to pull my wheelchair, and I think it will be easier to use a harness right from the beginning and let her pull when walking, than use a collar and teach her not to pull so much.

Many of the sled dog owners seem to teach their dogs to pull when wearing their harness, and to not pull when just wearing their collar. I think this will be the best way to teach my puppy. That way she will pull when working, but when she's not she will know to walk on a loose leash.

She will also get use to wearing both a collar and leash, which will make the transition from her harness to her working harness a lot easier when she is fully grown!

Saturday, October 20, 2007

Temperament Screening Tests

FINDING A SUITABLE CANDIDATE FOR ASSISTANCE DOG WORK


by Joan FrolingNote: As author, I have decided to avoid gender preference by referring to a dog as "him," but either gender can be a fine service dog.


TEMPERAMENT SCREENING

After locating a dog that seems promising, programs, private trainers and experienced owner-trainers traditionally make use of three important tests. These tests reveal something about the dog's fundamental nature. If a dog scores well on all three, it is not a guarantee the dog will make it through training, but certainly the results will help the trainer decide if it is worthwhile or not to put a dog through a Thirty Day Evaluation (testing) Period for a much more extensive evaluation of his or her suitability for this career.

The Noise Sensitivity Test: Nothing is worse than trying to cope with an assistance dog afflicted with a malady known as "gun-shyness" according to the few unfortunate assistance dog partners who have been burdened with one. Too many outings will be ruined by the dog's intolerance for thunder, firecrackers, balloons popping at a party, doors slamming and other loud noises a team may encounter unexpectedly. Usually a dog is born with this malady, though a few may develop the tragic defect later in life, possibly as the result of a prolonged ear infection.

A trainer should test each candidate for Noise Sensitivity. One method is to drop a pot lid or similar object that makes a loud clatter on an uncarpeted floor or pavement. The range should be no closer than four feet away from the dog, as we don't want him to think it was deliberately thrown at him. If possible, drop it when the dog isn't looking at it. If the dog cringes in fear and won't stop trembling, pees on the floor or tries to bolt from the room in terror, the dog is afflicted. Scolding won't help, for the dog cannot control his reaction. Extreme Sensitivity to loud noises is thought to be a central nervous system defect. If a dog shows no reaction to the noise whatsoever, test him again in a different environment. If he still seems totally oblivious to it, beware. He may be deaf or too dull in mind for a career as a working dog.

An appropriate response would be a dog that startles, but recovers quickly. Some label this Medium or Normal Sensitivity. If the dog shows curiosity about the object, wants to sniff it, that is first rate. Also desirable but much more rare is a "nerves of steel" reaction from a supremely confident dog. Half the time the dog may not even turn around to take a look. There will be subtle indications he heard the sound but his tail keeps wagging and it is obvious loud noises don't bother him in the slightest. His fearless attitude is a delight. Some label it Low Sensitivity.

A dog should be tested on a variety of noises in a number of locations during the 30 Day Evaluation Period. What should you think about a dog that plainly becomes nervous when exposed to loud or unfamiliar noises, but not to the point of being terrified? The dog just seems unable to relax. The dog typically resists lying down. He'd rather remain on his feet. He appears watchful, wary. The dog may ignore commands or only comply with reluctance. He can't be comforted or cajoled out of this mood. The dog may refuse a treat if offered or spit it out, too stressed to eat. This would be labeled High Sensitivity. If lack of socialization to an urban environment is the problem, sometimes it may be possible to overcome it with a month of noise de-sensitization and field trips. If it is a genetic flaw, the nervousness will be generalized to most loud noises, not to just one or two specific sounds or to one public setting in particular. Behavior modification therapy won't cure an inborn fundamental lack of tolerance for loud or high pitched noises. From the standpoint of an assistance dog partner, a dog that is stressed by exposure to loud or unfamiliar noises and cannot learn to relax and take them in stride definitely lacks a proper temperament for this career.

The Body Sensitivity Test: The way a dog responds to this test is a pretty good indicator of what will happen in public when somebody accidently steps on his paw or the owner's mobility equipment bumps into the dog. The tester may have the pup or adult in her lap or may prefer to sit next to the dog. The tester picks up the dog's paw and quickly gives the skin between the dog's toes a brief hard pinch. If a dog shows no sign of feeling the pinch, try a more forceful one. If the dog continues to serenely ignore it, the dog has low body sensitivity, something that can negatively impact the training process in several ways.

A normal and appropriate response is for the dog to withdraw his paw or perhaps let out one yelp or climb out of the tester's lap, indicating he noticed the pinch .....but almost immediately, the pup or adult candidate turns around and "forgives" the tester. This ability to quickly recover and the willingness to "forgive" the offender is essential in a dog who is being considered for a career in the assistance dog field. It is a trait that will protect toddlers who give his fur a painful yank. It will prevent the dog from becoming fearful of people who use mobility equipment like a wheelchair after one unpleasant experience.

If a dog's body sensitivity is abnormally high, the dog will overreact to the pinch. Usually the dog will flee from the tester with shrill cries of protest. Typically, the dog will refuse to return and forgive the offender, but instead will act suspicious of her. Such a dog may carry a long term grudge. A few may react by biting the person who caused the pain. As a general rule of thumb, if a dog won't forgive the tester, refuses to "kiss and makeup," the dog's body sensitivity is too high for him to be a reliable assistance dog.

The Fetch Test: Research has established there is a high correlation between pups that score well on the Fetch Test and those dogs who grow up to successfully complete training and graduate as guide dogs 16 months later. This experimental work took place at the school, Guide Dogs for the Blind, in San Rafael, California in the 1950's & 60's. It seems the Fetch Test not only can demonstrate if a dog has a natural retrieving aptitude, it can be an accurate predictor of future trainability. It apparently measures a dog's innate willingness to cooperate with a human partner.

The tester should take a sock, a slipper or some other item that may appeal to a puppy or adult dog, briefly tease the dog with the item, toss it and observe the results. If the pup or adult dog chases after it and picks it up, he shows promise and if he brings it back, he passes the test with flying colors. Coaxing and encouragement are allowable. The test should be repeated three times and is most accurate when the tester is alone with the dog in a distraction free environment.

A poor score may not mean the pup is totally devoid of potential, since any pup can have an off day due to illness or fatigue. For that reason pups at Guide Dogs for the Blind were tested for four weeks in a row, from 8 weeks to 12 weeks old, to ensure each had a reasonable chance to show his true colors.

If a pup continually runs off with the item, he may grow up to be more independent in nature than desirable, but would be preferable to a pup or an adult dog that makes no effort at all to retrieve.

If an adult dog with a strong natural aptitude for retrieving is going through the stress of changing homes, he may refuse to retrieve during the first week or two. A trainer may wish to give an otherwise promising young dog the benefit of the doubt. However, if the dog still refuses to retrieve at the end of a 30 day trial period, it is no longer "a stress reaction," it is definitely a lack of a natural born aptitude.

Almost any dog can be trained to retrieve on command using compulsion techniques. That is not the point. You are testing for a dog that is eager to please and wants to cooperate with and interact with, a human partner.

Suppose the dog exhibits an eagerness to please when it comes to obedience, but for some mysterious reason, refuses to retrieve? A number of methods, such as click and treat or competition with another dog can be explored in the attempt to interest the dog in retrieving something voluntarily. If none of them work, a guide dog trainer or hearing dog trainer might accept such a dog on probation, but most service dog schools, private trainers and experienced owner-trainers would not, especially if he or she expects the service dog to perform a number of tasks based on retrieving in the future. Plenty of dogs in every breed enjoy retrieving. Those seeking a service dog candidate would be wise to start with one of those, rather than working with a dog that must be forced to retrieve against it's will.

I’ve chosen the puppy!

I emailed the breeder about which puppy I want tonight. I had been thinking about it for a few weeks now. There were four females and two males in the litter and I had already narrowed it down to the females from the very beginning. The reasoning behind this has nothing to do with one sex being better than the other when being trained, but I didn’t want a male puppy that would climb all over my current yellow lab guide dog, Sophie until I had the puppy neutered. I want the whole process to be as stress free as possible for her.

From the very beginning, I totally fell in love with the puppy in this photo! She was 6 weeks and 2 days old here. I thought about one of the other puppy’s as a possibility, but I still had a nagging feeling that if I never got the puppy in the photo I would always regret it and wonder where she was, how she was doing and what could have been if she was mine.

I received an email from the breeder yesterday asking if I was still interested in the these puppies because some people were going to see them on Sunday. This made me think even more about the puppy I wanted. The first thing I thought about was how I couldn’t let the puppy I really wanted all this time go. I knew then that I had to choose that puppy! I’ve spent nights thinking about that particular puppy, and something in the back of my mind just couldn’t shake the feeling that this was “the” puppy for me. I know that I have made the right decision and don’t have any regrets. I also know that if I sent the email to the breeder saying that I wanted the other puppy I was thinking about, I would have regreted it as soon as I’d hit the “send” button!

Now I just have to think of a name for the puppy! I can’t just keep calling her “the puppy” all her life! I’ve been looking for a “husky” name. A name that when you hear it, you think “husky”. If anyone has any ideas, I’d love to hear them!

Service Tasks

RETRIEVE BASED TASKS

  • Bring portable phone to any room in house
  • Unload suitable grocery items from bags
  • Fetch a beverage from a refrigerator or cupboard
  • Fetch food bowl(s)
  • Pick up dropped items like coins, keys etc., in any location
  • Bring clothes, shoes, or slippers laid out to assist with dressing
  • Unload towels, other items from dryer
  • Assist to tidy house or yard - pickup, carry, deposit designated items
  • Seek & find teamwork - direct the dog with hand signals, vocal cues to: retrieve an unfamiliar object out of partner’s reach locate TV remote control select one of several VCR tapes atop TV cabinet, other surfaces
  • Use target stick to retrieve an indicated item off shelves in stores retrieve one pair of shoes from a dozen in closet
  • Use laser pointer to target an item to be retrieved
  • Fetch wheelchair when out of reach

CARRYING BASED TASKS (non retrieval)

  • Lug a basket of items around the house
  • Transport items to a specific location
  • Carry item(s) from the partner to a family member in another room
  • Send the dog to obtain food or other item from a family member and return with it.
  • Carry items following a partner
  • Pay for purchases at high counters
  • Transfer merchandise in bag from a clerk to a wheelchair user’s lap
  • Carry mail or newspaper into the house

DEPOSIT BASED TASKS

  • Put trash, junk mail into a wastebasket or garbage can
  • Deposit empty soda pop can or plastic bottle into recycling bin
  • Assist partner to load clothing into top loading washing machine
  • Dirty food bowl [dog's] - put into kitchen sink
  • Put silverware, non breakable dishes, plastic glasses in sink
  • Deliver items to “closet” [use a floor marker to indicate drop location]
  • Deposit dog toys into designated container
  • Put prescription bag, mail, other items on counter top

TUG BASED TASKS

  • Open cupboard doors with attached strap
  • Open drawers via strap
  • Open refrigerator door with a strap or suction cup device
  • Open interior doors via a strap with device to turn knob
  • Answer doorbell and open front door with strap attached to lever handle
  • Open or close sliding glass door with a strap or other tug devices
  • Shut restroom door that opens outward via a leash tied to doorknob
  • Close stall door that opens outward in restroom by delivering end of the leash to partner
  • Shut interior home, office doors that open outward
  • Shut exterior home, office doors that open inward
  • Assist to remove shoes, slippers, sandals
  • Tug socks off without biting down on foot
  • Remove slacks, sweater, coat
  • Drag heavy coat, other items to closet
  • Drag laundry basket through house with a strap
  • Drag bedding to the washing machine
  • Pull a drapery cord to open or close drapes
  • Assist to close hotel room drapes by tugging on edge near bottom of drape, backing up

NOSE NUDGE BASED TASKS

  • Cupboard door or drawers - nudge shut
  • Dryer door - hard nudge
  • Stove drawer - push it shut
  • Dishwasher door - put muzzle under open door, flip to shut
  • Refrigerator & freezer door - close with nudge
  • Operate button or push plate on electric commercial doors
  • Turn on light switches
  • Push floor pedal device to turn on lamp
  • Turn on metal based lamps with touch-lamp device installed - nudge base
  • Assist wheelchair user to regain sitting position if slumped over
  • Return paralyzed foot to the foot board of a wheelchair if it is dislodged

PAWING BASED TASKS (some dogs prefer it to nose nudge)

  • Cupboard door - shut it with one paw
  • Dryer door - shut it with one paw
  • Refrigerator & freezer door - one forepaw or both
  • Operate light switch on wall - jump up, paw the switch
  • Depress floor pedal device to turn on appliance(s) or lamp
  • Jump up to paw elevator button [steady dog if he tries it on slippery tile floor]
  • Operate push plate on electric commercial doors
  • Close heavy front door, other doors - jump up, use both forepaws

BRACING BASED TASKS (no harness)

  • Transfer assistance from wheelchair to bed, toilet, bathtub or van seat - hold Stand Stay position, then brace on command, enabling partner to keep their balance during transfer
  • Assist partner to turn over in bed; have appropriate backup plan

HARNESS BASED TASKS - Mobility Assistance (Only appropriate for large sturdy adult dogs with sound joints, proper training)

  • Assist moving wheelchair on flat [partner holds onto harness pull strap] avoiding obstacles
  • Work cooperatively with partner to get the wheelchair up a curb cut or mild incline; handler does as much of the work as possible, never asking the dog to attempt an incline unaided
  • Haul open heavy door, holding it ajar using six foot lead attached to back of harness, other end of lead attached to door handle or to a suction cup device on a glass door
  • Pull partner in/out of aisle seat on plane, and help into/out of seat
  • Backpacking - customary weight limit is 15% of the dog’s total body weight;10% if a dog performing another task, such as wheelchair pulling in addition to backpacking; total weight includes harness (average 3 - 4 lbs.). Load must be evenly distributed to prevent chafing.

OTHER KINDS OF ASSISTANCE IN CRISIS

  • Bark for help on command
  • Find a family member on command, lead back to location of partner
  • Put forepaws in lap of wheelchair user, hold that upright position so wheelchair user can access medication or cell phone or other items in the backpack
  • Wake up partner if smoke alarm goes off, assist to nearest exit

Guiding Tasks

OBSTACLE AVOIDANCE

  • Navigate around stationary obstacles like a lamp post, parking meters, pillars
  • Navigate around hazards like an open manhole and deep potholes
  • Navigate around low hanging obstacles like awnings or a tree branch to avoid a collision
  • Avoid moving objects such as bicycles, people, strollers, shopping carts, wheelchairs
  • Leash guiding around obstacles indoors or outdoors for a short distance
  • Intelligent Disobedience as in refusing a command to go forward into the road if there is oncoming traffic or intersecting traffic in the team’s path. The dog is also trained to halt, abruptly, rather than collide with a vehicle that intersects the team’s path when it enters the intersection during the team’s crossing

SIGNAL CHANGES IN ELEVATION

  • Halt or Sit to indicate every curb
  • Halt to indicate descending stairs at the top of a flight of stairs
  • Halt to indicate steps up into a building or patio area
  • Halt to warn of edge of subway or train platform
  • Halt to warn of approach to edge of cliff, ditch, other outdoor drop-offs
  • Halt when confronted by a barrier such as at construction site
  • Intelligent disobedience - refuse a command to go forward if there is a drop-off

LOCATE OBJECTS ON COMMAND

  • Find an exit from a room; indicate door knob
  • Find the elevator bank
  • Find specific entrances and/or exits
  • Find an empty seat, bench, or unoccupied area
  • Find a customary seat in a particular classroom
  • Follow a designated person such as a waiter to restaurant table, clerk to elevator, etc.
    Locate specified destination such as store in mall, hotel room or home from a distance, once all other decision points such as intersecting streets, hallways, etc. have been passed

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