Tuesday, October 30, 2007

I'm getting the puppy on Nov. 7th!

I just thought I'd write an update. I'm going to pick up my puppy on Nov. 7th, thanks to a family member on my step dad's side of the family! She offered to drive me to the puppy breeder's house to pick the puppy up!

I still haven't thought of a name! I know I need to come up with one I am happy with, and that suits her, but I'm having trouble finding a female "husky" name that hasn't been over-used. It seems like the same names are used over and over.

I've picked out a crate, crate pad, collar, leash, and Nylabone and it will be ordered this week. It will be shipped from this city, so it shouldn't take too long to get here. I've decided to buy a collar to use for now, and Julian is going to bring me a leash, harness and collar that he is getting a girl in the dog club class he teaches to make. She breeds husky's, and makes leather leashes etc.

I decided on a Nylabone because Sophie, my yellow lab has had one since guide dog school in Aug. of 2000 and she still has the same bone! She's not a "power chewer", but these bones are great! The yellow lab Viki owned who stayed in the room accross the hall would chew his bones up in the matter of days! I thought that if I got the "wolf" bone it would last longer, and the puppy would have something she could chew on and I wouldn't have to stay with her while she chewed it. I also found bones that you fill with water and freeze them. They are really good for dogs that are teething. I'll have to look into these later.

It's so hard to find non-latex dog toys! As a matter of fact, it's hard to find non-latex anything! I have a latex allergy, and can't handle anything that is made of rubber. All of the "Kong" toys are made of rubber, and most "chew" toys are. Even tennis balls have rubber bits on them! I'll have to try to find some toys besides rope toys to get. Even some rope toys have tennis balls attached!

I'll keep everyone updated, and add more photos of the puppy when I get her!

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Dog litter box


I live in a condo in Toronto, and there is very little grass around. There is a park about a block away, but I don't want to go there at night and it isn't very convenient having to go there every time my current guide dog, or my new puppy has to go out.

I came up with a solution that solves this problem when we moved in. I decided to build my yellow lab a litter box! A lot of people must have thought I had totally "lost it", but I thought it would work quite well. I could put it outside on the large patio area I have and train her to "go" in it.

We went to Home Depot and bought the material and I made the box. I know you can get "dog litter", but I wasn't sure where, so I filled it with kitty litter. It took a few days to get her use to using the litter box because she got so use to going on grass, but after a few days she was using it when she needed to go! Now I just open the door, and let her out and she comes back in when she's done! I also put the litter box under the balcony that is above this floor so it wouldn't get wet when it rains.

There are two cats that live on this floor, and they come around my patio and look in the windows. One of them even comes into the condo if we leave the door open! They would sniff around the box and I tried to keep them away, in case Sophie would not want to use the litter box if she knew the cats had used it.

The next time I got some kitty litter, I found some Swheat Scoop Natural Litter. It's made from naturally processed wheat, has no clay and still clumps so it can be easily removed when wet! Sophie used to get the other kitty litter stuck between the pads of her paws, but this stopped once I started using the new litter! If any gets on her paws when she coems back inside now, it can easily be vacuumed up!

I'm going to train the puppy to use the litter box too. It will be a lot easier, and come in very handy, not only when it snows, but just because I will just have to let her outside. I'm not planning on letting her out there without using a leash though, because she could easily slip out underneight the fence. I'll have to think of a way to "husky proof" things out there!

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Collar or Harness?


I have been thinking about if I should use a collar or a harness when I get my puppy.

I've been reading as much as I can about huskies and most people seem to be trying to teach them not to pull. I can understand why you'd want to do that, but in my case I want the puppy to pull.

When she grows up she will be helping to pull my wheelchair, and I think it will be easier to use a harness right from the beginning and let her pull when walking, than use a collar and teach her not to pull so much.

Many of the sled dog owners seem to teach their dogs to pull when wearing their harness, and to not pull when just wearing their collar. I think this will be the best way to teach my puppy. That way she will pull when working, but when she's not she will know to walk on a loose leash.

She will also get use to wearing both a collar and leash, which will make the transition from her harness to her working harness a lot easier when she is fully grown!

Saturday, October 20, 2007

Temperament Screening Tests

FINDING A SUITABLE CANDIDATE FOR ASSISTANCE DOG WORK


by Joan FrolingNote: As author, I have decided to avoid gender preference by referring to a dog as "him," but either gender can be a fine service dog.


TEMPERAMENT SCREENING

After locating a dog that seems promising, programs, private trainers and experienced owner-trainers traditionally make use of three important tests. These tests reveal something about the dog's fundamental nature. If a dog scores well on all three, it is not a guarantee the dog will make it through training, but certainly the results will help the trainer decide if it is worthwhile or not to put a dog through a Thirty Day Evaluation (testing) Period for a much more extensive evaluation of his or her suitability for this career.

The Noise Sensitivity Test: Nothing is worse than trying to cope with an assistance dog afflicted with a malady known as "gun-shyness" according to the few unfortunate assistance dog partners who have been burdened with one. Too many outings will be ruined by the dog's intolerance for thunder, firecrackers, balloons popping at a party, doors slamming and other loud noises a team may encounter unexpectedly. Usually a dog is born with this malady, though a few may develop the tragic defect later in life, possibly as the result of a prolonged ear infection.

A trainer should test each candidate for Noise Sensitivity. One method is to drop a pot lid or similar object that makes a loud clatter on an uncarpeted floor or pavement. The range should be no closer than four feet away from the dog, as we don't want him to think it was deliberately thrown at him. If possible, drop it when the dog isn't looking at it. If the dog cringes in fear and won't stop trembling, pees on the floor or tries to bolt from the room in terror, the dog is afflicted. Scolding won't help, for the dog cannot control his reaction. Extreme Sensitivity to loud noises is thought to be a central nervous system defect. If a dog shows no reaction to the noise whatsoever, test him again in a different environment. If he still seems totally oblivious to it, beware. He may be deaf or too dull in mind for a career as a working dog.

An appropriate response would be a dog that startles, but recovers quickly. Some label this Medium or Normal Sensitivity. If the dog shows curiosity about the object, wants to sniff it, that is first rate. Also desirable but much more rare is a "nerves of steel" reaction from a supremely confident dog. Half the time the dog may not even turn around to take a look. There will be subtle indications he heard the sound but his tail keeps wagging and it is obvious loud noises don't bother him in the slightest. His fearless attitude is a delight. Some label it Low Sensitivity.

A dog should be tested on a variety of noises in a number of locations during the 30 Day Evaluation Period. What should you think about a dog that plainly becomes nervous when exposed to loud or unfamiliar noises, but not to the point of being terrified? The dog just seems unable to relax. The dog typically resists lying down. He'd rather remain on his feet. He appears watchful, wary. The dog may ignore commands or only comply with reluctance. He can't be comforted or cajoled out of this mood. The dog may refuse a treat if offered or spit it out, too stressed to eat. This would be labeled High Sensitivity. If lack of socialization to an urban environment is the problem, sometimes it may be possible to overcome it with a month of noise de-sensitization and field trips. If it is a genetic flaw, the nervousness will be generalized to most loud noises, not to just one or two specific sounds or to one public setting in particular. Behavior modification therapy won't cure an inborn fundamental lack of tolerance for loud or high pitched noises. From the standpoint of an assistance dog partner, a dog that is stressed by exposure to loud or unfamiliar noises and cannot learn to relax and take them in stride definitely lacks a proper temperament for this career.

The Body Sensitivity Test: The way a dog responds to this test is a pretty good indicator of what will happen in public when somebody accidently steps on his paw or the owner's mobility equipment bumps into the dog. The tester may have the pup or adult in her lap or may prefer to sit next to the dog. The tester picks up the dog's paw and quickly gives the skin between the dog's toes a brief hard pinch. If a dog shows no sign of feeling the pinch, try a more forceful one. If the dog continues to serenely ignore it, the dog has low body sensitivity, something that can negatively impact the training process in several ways.

A normal and appropriate response is for the dog to withdraw his paw or perhaps let out one yelp or climb out of the tester's lap, indicating he noticed the pinch .....but almost immediately, the pup or adult candidate turns around and "forgives" the tester. This ability to quickly recover and the willingness to "forgive" the offender is essential in a dog who is being considered for a career in the assistance dog field. It is a trait that will protect toddlers who give his fur a painful yank. It will prevent the dog from becoming fearful of people who use mobility equipment like a wheelchair after one unpleasant experience.

If a dog's body sensitivity is abnormally high, the dog will overreact to the pinch. Usually the dog will flee from the tester with shrill cries of protest. Typically, the dog will refuse to return and forgive the offender, but instead will act suspicious of her. Such a dog may carry a long term grudge. A few may react by biting the person who caused the pain. As a general rule of thumb, if a dog won't forgive the tester, refuses to "kiss and makeup," the dog's body sensitivity is too high for him to be a reliable assistance dog.

The Fetch Test: Research has established there is a high correlation between pups that score well on the Fetch Test and those dogs who grow up to successfully complete training and graduate as guide dogs 16 months later. This experimental work took place at the school, Guide Dogs for the Blind, in San Rafael, California in the 1950's & 60's. It seems the Fetch Test not only can demonstrate if a dog has a natural retrieving aptitude, it can be an accurate predictor of future trainability. It apparently measures a dog's innate willingness to cooperate with a human partner.

The tester should take a sock, a slipper or some other item that may appeal to a puppy or adult dog, briefly tease the dog with the item, toss it and observe the results. If the pup or adult dog chases after it and picks it up, he shows promise and if he brings it back, he passes the test with flying colors. Coaxing and encouragement are allowable. The test should be repeated three times and is most accurate when the tester is alone with the dog in a distraction free environment.

A poor score may not mean the pup is totally devoid of potential, since any pup can have an off day due to illness or fatigue. For that reason pups at Guide Dogs for the Blind were tested for four weeks in a row, from 8 weeks to 12 weeks old, to ensure each had a reasonable chance to show his true colors.

If a pup continually runs off with the item, he may grow up to be more independent in nature than desirable, but would be preferable to a pup or an adult dog that makes no effort at all to retrieve.

If an adult dog with a strong natural aptitude for retrieving is going through the stress of changing homes, he may refuse to retrieve during the first week or two. A trainer may wish to give an otherwise promising young dog the benefit of the doubt. However, if the dog still refuses to retrieve at the end of a 30 day trial period, it is no longer "a stress reaction," it is definitely a lack of a natural born aptitude.

Almost any dog can be trained to retrieve on command using compulsion techniques. That is not the point. You are testing for a dog that is eager to please and wants to cooperate with and interact with, a human partner.

Suppose the dog exhibits an eagerness to please when it comes to obedience, but for some mysterious reason, refuses to retrieve? A number of methods, such as click and treat or competition with another dog can be explored in the attempt to interest the dog in retrieving something voluntarily. If none of them work, a guide dog trainer or hearing dog trainer might accept such a dog on probation, but most service dog schools, private trainers and experienced owner-trainers would not, especially if he or she expects the service dog to perform a number of tasks based on retrieving in the future. Plenty of dogs in every breed enjoy retrieving. Those seeking a service dog candidate would be wise to start with one of those, rather than working with a dog that must be forced to retrieve against it's will.

I’ve chosen the puppy!

I emailed the breeder about which puppy I want tonight. I had been thinking about it for a few weeks now. There were four females and two males in the litter and I had already narrowed it down to the females from the very beginning. The reasoning behind this has nothing to do with one sex being better than the other when being trained, but I didn’t want a male puppy that would climb all over my current yellow lab guide dog, Sophie until I had the puppy neutered. I want the whole process to be as stress free as possible for her.

From the very beginning, I totally fell in love with the puppy in this photo! She was 6 weeks and 2 days old here. I thought about one of the other puppy’s as a possibility, but I still had a nagging feeling that if I never got the puppy in the photo I would always regret it and wonder where she was, how she was doing and what could have been if she was mine.

I received an email from the breeder yesterday asking if I was still interested in the these puppies because some people were going to see them on Sunday. This made me think even more about the puppy I wanted. The first thing I thought about was how I couldn’t let the puppy I really wanted all this time go. I knew then that I had to choose that puppy! I’ve spent nights thinking about that particular puppy, and something in the back of my mind just couldn’t shake the feeling that this was “the” puppy for me. I know that I have made the right decision and don’t have any regrets. I also know that if I sent the email to the breeder saying that I wanted the other puppy I was thinking about, I would have regreted it as soon as I’d hit the “send” button!

Now I just have to think of a name for the puppy! I can’t just keep calling her “the puppy” all her life! I’ve been looking for a “husky” name. A name that when you hear it, you think “husky”. If anyone has any ideas, I’d love to hear them!

Service Tasks

RETRIEVE BASED TASKS

  • Bring portable phone to any room in house
  • Unload suitable grocery items from bags
  • Fetch a beverage from a refrigerator or cupboard
  • Fetch food bowl(s)
  • Pick up dropped items like coins, keys etc., in any location
  • Bring clothes, shoes, or slippers laid out to assist with dressing
  • Unload towels, other items from dryer
  • Assist to tidy house or yard - pickup, carry, deposit designated items
  • Seek & find teamwork - direct the dog with hand signals, vocal cues to: retrieve an unfamiliar object out of partner’s reach locate TV remote control select one of several VCR tapes atop TV cabinet, other surfaces
  • Use target stick to retrieve an indicated item off shelves in stores retrieve one pair of shoes from a dozen in closet
  • Use laser pointer to target an item to be retrieved
  • Fetch wheelchair when out of reach

CARRYING BASED TASKS (non retrieval)

  • Lug a basket of items around the house
  • Transport items to a specific location
  • Carry item(s) from the partner to a family member in another room
  • Send the dog to obtain food or other item from a family member and return with it.
  • Carry items following a partner
  • Pay for purchases at high counters
  • Transfer merchandise in bag from a clerk to a wheelchair user’s lap
  • Carry mail or newspaper into the house

DEPOSIT BASED TASKS

  • Put trash, junk mail into a wastebasket or garbage can
  • Deposit empty soda pop can or plastic bottle into recycling bin
  • Assist partner to load clothing into top loading washing machine
  • Dirty food bowl [dog's] - put into kitchen sink
  • Put silverware, non breakable dishes, plastic glasses in sink
  • Deliver items to “closet” [use a floor marker to indicate drop location]
  • Deposit dog toys into designated container
  • Put prescription bag, mail, other items on counter top

TUG BASED TASKS

  • Open cupboard doors with attached strap
  • Open drawers via strap
  • Open refrigerator door with a strap or suction cup device
  • Open interior doors via a strap with device to turn knob
  • Answer doorbell and open front door with strap attached to lever handle
  • Open or close sliding glass door with a strap or other tug devices
  • Shut restroom door that opens outward via a leash tied to doorknob
  • Close stall door that opens outward in restroom by delivering end of the leash to partner
  • Shut interior home, office doors that open outward
  • Shut exterior home, office doors that open inward
  • Assist to remove shoes, slippers, sandals
  • Tug socks off without biting down on foot
  • Remove slacks, sweater, coat
  • Drag heavy coat, other items to closet
  • Drag laundry basket through house with a strap
  • Drag bedding to the washing machine
  • Pull a drapery cord to open or close drapes
  • Assist to close hotel room drapes by tugging on edge near bottom of drape, backing up

NOSE NUDGE BASED TASKS

  • Cupboard door or drawers - nudge shut
  • Dryer door - hard nudge
  • Stove drawer - push it shut
  • Dishwasher door - put muzzle under open door, flip to shut
  • Refrigerator & freezer door - close with nudge
  • Operate button or push plate on electric commercial doors
  • Turn on light switches
  • Push floor pedal device to turn on lamp
  • Turn on metal based lamps with touch-lamp device installed - nudge base
  • Assist wheelchair user to regain sitting position if slumped over
  • Return paralyzed foot to the foot board of a wheelchair if it is dislodged

PAWING BASED TASKS (some dogs prefer it to nose nudge)

  • Cupboard door - shut it with one paw
  • Dryer door - shut it with one paw
  • Refrigerator & freezer door - one forepaw or both
  • Operate light switch on wall - jump up, paw the switch
  • Depress floor pedal device to turn on appliance(s) or lamp
  • Jump up to paw elevator button [steady dog if he tries it on slippery tile floor]
  • Operate push plate on electric commercial doors
  • Close heavy front door, other doors - jump up, use both forepaws

BRACING BASED TASKS (no harness)

  • Transfer assistance from wheelchair to bed, toilet, bathtub or van seat - hold Stand Stay position, then brace on command, enabling partner to keep their balance during transfer
  • Assist partner to turn over in bed; have appropriate backup plan

HARNESS BASED TASKS - Mobility Assistance (Only appropriate for large sturdy adult dogs with sound joints, proper training)

  • Assist moving wheelchair on flat [partner holds onto harness pull strap] avoiding obstacles
  • Work cooperatively with partner to get the wheelchair up a curb cut or mild incline; handler does as much of the work as possible, never asking the dog to attempt an incline unaided
  • Haul open heavy door, holding it ajar using six foot lead attached to back of harness, other end of lead attached to door handle or to a suction cup device on a glass door
  • Pull partner in/out of aisle seat on plane, and help into/out of seat
  • Backpacking - customary weight limit is 15% of the dog’s total body weight;10% if a dog performing another task, such as wheelchair pulling in addition to backpacking; total weight includes harness (average 3 - 4 lbs.). Load must be evenly distributed to prevent chafing.

OTHER KINDS OF ASSISTANCE IN CRISIS

  • Bark for help on command
  • Find a family member on command, lead back to location of partner
  • Put forepaws in lap of wheelchair user, hold that upright position so wheelchair user can access medication or cell phone or other items in the backpack
  • Wake up partner if smoke alarm goes off, assist to nearest exit

Guiding Tasks

OBSTACLE AVOIDANCE

  • Navigate around stationary obstacles like a lamp post, parking meters, pillars
  • Navigate around hazards like an open manhole and deep potholes
  • Navigate around low hanging obstacles like awnings or a tree branch to avoid a collision
  • Avoid moving objects such as bicycles, people, strollers, shopping carts, wheelchairs
  • Leash guiding around obstacles indoors or outdoors for a short distance
  • Intelligent Disobedience as in refusing a command to go forward into the road if there is oncoming traffic or intersecting traffic in the team’s path. The dog is also trained to halt, abruptly, rather than collide with a vehicle that intersects the team’s path when it enters the intersection during the team’s crossing

SIGNAL CHANGES IN ELEVATION

  • Halt or Sit to indicate every curb
  • Halt to indicate descending stairs at the top of a flight of stairs
  • Halt to indicate steps up into a building or patio area
  • Halt to warn of edge of subway or train platform
  • Halt to warn of approach to edge of cliff, ditch, other outdoor drop-offs
  • Halt when confronted by a barrier such as at construction site
  • Intelligent disobedience - refuse a command to go forward if there is a drop-off

LOCATE OBJECTS ON COMMAND

  • Find an exit from a room; indicate door knob
  • Find the elevator bank
  • Find specific entrances and/or exits
  • Find an empty seat, bench, or unoccupied area
  • Find a customary seat in a particular classroom
  • Follow a designated person such as a waiter to restaurant table, clerk to elevator, etc.
    Locate specified destination such as store in mall, hotel room or home from a distance, once all other decision points such as intersecting streets, hallways, etc. have been passed

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